AUTHOR'S NOTE: All prestigious journals must have a restaurant review from time to time and for this publication that time is now. Full disclosure: It is my favorite Portland restaurant without cloth napkins and Greorgann would never go there with me because of something she called, "ambiance" (they don't serve wine).
Chen's Good Taste Restaurant
Chen chose the spot to open his restaurant in a section of Portland where tour groups do not visit. If you go by train, as I do, get off at the Skidmore Fountain under the Burnside Bridge and climb two flights of metal stairs to street level on West Burnside, then walk three blocks to 4th Ave. It will be necessary to walk around various citizens who are sleeping, some face up, on the sidewalk but your passing will not disturb them. Chen's window to the street is covered with pictures of various offerings along with a menu and a favorable newspaper review that is starting to yellow with age.
The room seats 35 or 40 people and if you arrive around noon you"ll find it filled with diners, 90% of whom are of the Asian persuasion -- a good sign you've made a wise choice. It'll be best if you avoid visiting the restrooms, which are through a door that leads to a long hallway. Turning left you pass a view of the kitchen where deceased poultry hang from hooks. Then you pass small rooms filled with disorderly stuff. The restrooms are, well... Finally, as you try to re-enter the dining room, a sign reads, PUSH DOOR. If you pull instead of push, the handle comes off in your hand and you must reinsert it to get back into the room.
Now about my favorite dish, which is the only item I've ever ordered over the years: Dumpling noodle soup. $7.50. Four large dumplings in a delicious broth with those tiny Chinese noodles and one small sprig of boc choy. The dumplings are stuffed with something I could never identify but consist of black lines intermingled with something white and kind of puffy. To quote Chen, "good taste." Really, really good taste. I suppose I might have asked what exactly the filling was but, hey --
what's the difference?
Over the years I've watched other menu items being served and they all looked terrific. From time to time I've been tempted to order some of them, but those dumpling kept drawing me in.
Chen wouldn't lie to you. Good taste. $9.50 with tip and endless tea.
